When I started building the On2 layout, certain things weren't done in the correct order. So when construction began on the HC, I decided to do what was needed in the correct order. So, this time I wanted to make sure to put the backdrop in place before any benchwork was started. I used .060 sheet styrene to make the backdrop. I glued 9 sheets to make a seamless backdrop. I used tubes of Liquid Nails to glue the sheet in place. Now, here's a hint. Don't buy your Liquid Nails until you are ready to use it. I had to go back in places to scrap the old glue off and reglue with some new Nails.
For painting I used two shades of blue. The darker blue went at top and the lighter on the bottom. I used small foam rollers to apply the paint. For the middle color, I mixed both blues together and applied with a third roller and as I rolled the paint on, I mixed with the darker blue. A fourth roller was used to combine the lighter with the middle color. I'm not sure how well it will photograph but it looks good in person and I'm happy with how it turned out. I won't be applying any clouds for a couple of reasons. One, clouds move and they are constantly changing shape. I also feel that they would distract the operator from his/her job. Besides in the fall, the time of year I am modeling, there are many days where there are no clouds in the sky.
With the backdrop complete(as far as I'm going with stage one), I can now concentrate on the benchwork. I use "L" girder frame work. Linn Westcott introduced the "L" girder when he was editor of Model Railroader magazine. Linn used 1 x 3 and 1 x 4's to make the L girder. I decided to use 1 x 2's and 1 x 3's for my girders. Now some will say "its too light". I say "too light for what?" I'm not building the benchwork for me to lie on or walk on. With the rear girder attached to the wall and the front girder braced with supports also attached to the wall makes for a very strong and motionless benchwork. I have never had any sagging or twisting of any kind. Some of the benchwork is over 10 years old. I also use 1 x 2's for the cross joists spaced 12" apart. This gives me some reference like a grid.
I will be using wood spline for the sub-roadbed. What I like about this system is the natural easement it builds into itself. On top of the sub-roadbed I will be using California Roadbed homasote strips. These will be glued to the sub-roadbed using caulking to help with sound deading. I tried using caulk to glue the ties down on my On2 layout, but when I went to sand the tops of the ties, a lot of the ties just rolled over with the sanding block. Speaking of ties, I cut my own from clear pine boards. Commerical ties are cut from wood that has funky grains to them, some of which will not take stains uniformly. I have two paper shopping bags full of regulate ties which I believe will do the whole railroad. More switch ties will have to be cut later for the rest of the switches
With the start of installation of risers, it's time to show how the spline is put together. It's not my design. I found an article in the January 1998 issue of RailModel Journal (another great model railroad magazine gone) about Spline benchwork by Bill Neale. He described how the HO club he was a member of built their roadbed. I adapted it for the On2 layout and really liked the ease of construction and the smooth lines it produces. So all I've done here now is add two more splines . The two intermediate splines are located under the rails to give support to the roadbed while spiking the rail down.
In the illustration you can see two slices close together. This is just to show you how two splines are spliced together. Splices will not be located so close together in the roadbed.
To start the construction, centerline marks are located on the tops of the riser. Only the end of the mark toward the joist the riser is on is for location. This is the spot that dimensions are taken from. There are two center splines that are glued together that forms the base. The first spline is the locater spline. I start with the rear spline and using the front surface I line up the edge of the spline with the centerline mark on the riser. I then drill a clearance hole down threw the spline over the riser for an 1-1/2" finishing nail. I then drive in a nail to hold the spline in place but leave the top of the nail up so in case the spline needs to be moved for adjustment I can get at the head.
Now before the next center spline is glued to the first, the sidings I'm starting with combine together at a #6 switch. I will then start with the front spline of the front siding and locate it on the front side of the centerline and work toward the switch where the two splines come together to form the center spline of the portion of track leading up to the mainline. Now I will go back and fill in the the rest of the splines and spacer blocks to form the whole roadbed.
